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How Chinese culture has influenced Western fashion designers from Gucci to Louis Vuitton

Fashion designers eternally search for inspiration, and many have rifled through China’s cultural history for their collections

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The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s China: Through the Looking Glass exhibition in 2015 showed the influence Chinese culture has had on Western designers. Photo: courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Luxury fashion houses have long had a fascination with China, and for decades have woven Chinese looks and symbols into their collections.

But while Western designers taking inspiration from traditional Asian clothing or motifs might have been acceptable in the past, in today’s social media-shaped world it can be seen as cultural appropriation.

It is a tricky line to walk, one that Dior stumbled on with its autumn 2022 collection when it was accused of cultural appropriation by Chinese social media users. They claimed that a US$3,800 pleated wool and mohair skirt resembled a traditional Chinese horse-face skirt popular in the Song (960 to 1279) and Ming (1368 to 1644) dynasties.

In 2015, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York hosted “China: Through the Looking Glass”, an exhibition that explored the impact of Chinese aesthetics on Western fashion.

Comprising more than 140 costumes and accessories – the show juxtaposed masterpieces of Chinese art and rare artefacts with works by Western designers.

Here we look at five luxury fashion houses influenced by Chinese culture.

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