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Watches

The key trends at Watches and Wonders 2025: form, fit and function rule, with new concepts from Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, cool wearability from A. Lange & Söhne and Panerai, and bold new colours

STORYJosiah Ng
The Tudor Black Bay 58 in bold burgundy exemplifies a trend among watchmakers this year for introducing vibrant new colours and bold designs. Photo: Handout
The Tudor Black Bay 58 in bold burgundy exemplifies a trend among watchmakers this year for introducing vibrant new colours and bold designs. Photo: Handout
Watches and Wonders

IWC, Chopard and Parmigiani Fleurier favoured functional complications and durability, while brands like Hublot, Zenith, Ulysse Nardin and Tudor focused on aesthetic values such as size and hue

When more than 60 brands showcased new releases at Watches and Wonders this year, innovation and bold design leap to mind as the main stand-outs. Some brands focused on new mechanics under the bonnet, some chose to focus on increasing durability and function, while others concentrated on rethinking aesthetics in terms of colour use and watch size.
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen 38mm. Photo: Handout
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen 38mm. Photo: Handout

Vacheron Constantin veered heavily in one direction as it released Les Cabinotiers Solaria, breaking the record for most complications in a single wristwatch at 41. “Usually for these grand complication [pieces],” Vacheron Constantin heritage and style director Christian Selmoni told us in a round-table chat, “you’ll see that there is engraving or gem setting to emphasise the complexity of the watch and the value of the timepiece. [To contrast with that] we wanted to do a very simple design […] because if you look at the dial, which is technical, we wanted to have this readability and the case is almost brutal. We wanted to anchor this timepiece in modernity, which is something I think unexpected but that people will appreciate, [especially] since we are already breaking with tradition.”

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While Selmoni refers to the Solaria specifically, the desire to develop bold and exciting yet relevant and wearable pieces is a key undercurrent in all the disparate and wonderful ways brands approached their releases this year.

New movements, new borders

A view of the Calibre L122.2 in the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual. Photo: Handout
A view of the Calibre L122.2 in the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual. Photo: Handout
Vacheron Constantin and Bulgari are certainly not the only names pushing boundaries in 2025, and nor was Rolex the only brand that debuted a stunning new movement. Grand Seiko made waves as it released Spring Drive UFA (meaning Ultra-Fine Accuracy) with the new 9RB2 calibre inside. It combines quartz oscillation with traditional mechanical powering to achieve an accuracy of plus/minus 20 seconds a year.

A. Lange & Söhne introduced two new movements with wearability in mind. The Minute Repeater Perpetual contains the new L122.2 calibre and combines big date, perpetual calendar and minute repeater complications in a case thickness of just 12.1mm. Meanwhile, the brand released the smallest version of the 1815 yet with a 34mm case courtesy of the calibre L152.1 allowing for a smaller watch, which also has a whopping 72 hours of power reserve.

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech. Photo: Handout
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech. Photo: Handout

Movements aren’t the only spaces for upgrades – brands also focused on functionality. Panerai’s Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech allows you to set the perpetual calendar using the crown only, with no need to fiddle with separate pushers or correctors.

Complicated yet functional