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Paris Fashion Week 2025: from Sarah Burton’s debut collection for Givenchy, to Valentino’s ‘nightclub toilet’ and Vans collaboration, Balenciaga’s sporty Puma tie-up and Hermès’ gritty equestrian theme
STORYVincenzo La Torre
Hermès’ Nadège Vanhée emphasised the house’s equestrian roots, Balenciaga’s Demna embraced haphazardness, Valentino’s Alessandro Michele blended classy and seedy, while Burton’s show was a must-see
The autumn/winter 2025 shows are currently under way in Paris, where Sarah Burton’s first collection for Givenchy was one of the hottest tickets this season.
Here are highlights from the shows so far.
Sarah Burton’s only job in fashion before taking over as creative director of Givenchy last year was at Alexander McQueen, where she turned his flights of fancy into reality and then continued building upon his legacy after his tragic passing in 2010.
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Her ability to make a runway statement while also creating clothes that women want to wear was on full display at her first collection for Givenchy, the LVMH-owned brand that the luxury group has been trying to revive for about a decade.
The show opened with a mesh bodysuit worn over a lingerie set and printed with the words “Givenchy Paris 1952”. The revealing fabric also appeared in three stand-out dresses with flounced hems, while two draped gowns in leather stood out for their couture shapes.
Burton is a talented tailor, and her signature broad-shouldered, nipped-waist jackets also made an appearance.
Givenchy is known for the little black dress that Audrey Hepburn famously wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s: Burton’s takes on that staple included a sheer one and a short one with a train at the back.
A surprising addition to the range was a dress made of discarded make-up cases and compacts, a nod to Givenchy’s long-established beauty business.